Wild Camp, Llyn Croesor

Start Point - Car Park SH684453.

Its a beautiful, clear and sharp spring afternoon when I arrive at the carpark at Tanygrisiau, a small village half a mile from Blaenau Ffestiniog. The start of this excursion is along a track I walked late last year along the Western shore of Llyn Cwmorthin taking in the old disused quarry barracks, the Chapel and Plas Cwmorthin along the way. Much of the history of this quarry is mentioned in the earlier post 'Llyn Cwmorthin and Quarry, Nr.Blaenau Ffestiniog '

                                                                       The old Chapel.

 

The weather is certainly different from my last visit here when it was dull and overcast. This afternoon the sun is shining and the sky is clear. The forecast for the nights camp out and tomorrow is good. Its all fitting into place.
I come to the gate across the track close to Plas Cwmorthin. From here its new territory for me. I follow the track now becoming a steep hike bending to the left known as 'Bwlch Cwmorthin'. Slowly I walk up the track, rucksack on my back, dogs by my side, sun beating down and sweat dripping from my forehead. I keep rounding the curve, suddenly hearing the roar of a hidden waterfall to my right, (SH666463) which is not marked on the map. This must be the outlet from Llyn Cwm-Corsiog and Llyn Clogwyn-Birth higher up to the north. I have a break here and let the dogs explore as I take in the beauty of the falls and re-fuel for the next stage.

Continuing up I soon come to a large flat area which houses the remains of a disused quarry. Its hard to imagine how it look in its hay day with all the buildings still erect and men going about their work in harsh conditions providing slate to 'Roof the World'. Now all is still. All that stands are two rows of barracks surrounded by ruins and old bits of rusted machinery.

 

 

I check the map as this point seems to be the crossroads of two footpaths and an old Track named 'Bwlch Y Rhosydd'. The paths proved hard to find so taking a bearing, (new1:25000 map and Silva Explorer compass on there first trip), I head in a South Westerly direction, keeping the old slag heap to my left, heading through wet and boggy grass land, soon coming ta a style up above to my right. Both sides are just a pool of muddy, boggy water which I immediately sink into, especially with the added weight of my pack, but the boots are good and my feet stay dry. From here I find a faint track heading up. I'm hoping its the right one, rechecking the map and compass, 'Trust the compass' I have read so many times, I continue up for a couple of hundred meters, rounding a left hand bend, I glance over my left shoulder my first sighting of the lake I'm looking for. This is the first time I've navigated off a well beaten track with a compass and map so it was a sense of achievement to find this lake known as Llyn Croesor, translated as The Welcome Lake. (SH661457)

 

                                                        Llyn Croesor from the North

I initially picked two areas to set up the tent on. One, from close to where the photo above was taken. This would of given me a little more shelter if the weather turned but I did wonder if the pegs would take in the shallow soil. The second, which I chose was up on the ridge above the lake, just to the right of centre in the photo above. It held fantastic views to the North West of Cnicht and to the West I could look down Cwm Croesor with Yr Arddu rising in the distance.

                                                                   The Camp site.

I sit down on a rock with a fresh Coffee and write down my thoughts -
'I'm now sat on a small ridge just above Llyn Croesor. Ahead of me the sun is beginning to set above the summit of Yr Arddy. Cwm Croesor lies below in the shadow of Cnicht towering to my right. The view is stunning. I can see many peaks rising in the distance past Yr Arddy, all lighter in colour the further away they are. The sky is blue with wisps of white cloud. The light at this time is showing the mountains at their best. There's a slight breeze with a bit of a nip in the air. I wonder if I'll get a bit of frost in the morning. I've decided to camp where I sit. There are a few rocks about but if I can find a spot to sleep comfortably the morning view will be second to none. I pity people who have never experienced this. Everyone should at least once. I am alone with nature, its stunningly beautiful, quiet, except for the sound of a stream crashing down the side of Cnicht.
I sat and witnessed the sunset over Yr Arddu, watching the colours change over the mountains until totally consumed by darkness. The stars are now bright, really bright and the moon resembles a clipping of a finger nail.

 

Sunset over the mountains

 

The path up to Llyn Croesor

 

Cnicht from camp site

 

Vinnie and Buddy

The temperature was dropping, on came the thermals and extra T shirts, soon followed by hat and gloves. A while later I retire to the comfort of my sleeping bag, Vinnies inside keeping my feet warm and Buddy cuddled up next to me.

Come the morning, its up  with the stove to make a coffee before packing up camp. Its a joy to sip a hot coffee alone on the mountainside with only the dogs for company. I cant see a single human. I pack up camp then take the dogs down to the Llyn for an early morning swim before departing. My plan was to follow two marked footpaths back down to the carpark, thus completing the circuit. With the paths there one minute, gone the next, this was easier said than done.

I set off in an Easterly direction heading up to the visible disused quarry named Rhosydd. Again, a flat area of ruins and trenches. Here I took a more South Easterly direction on what I thought was the path. I planned to sweep around the steep Southern side of Moel-Yr-Hydd. I misread the map here and ended up on top of a near cliff face heading to the mountain instead of around it. I back tracked along the ledge taking in the views far below. It was a pain but well worth the views so I wasn't too disappointed. I continued down the original track, I think, looking to find the footpath that would take me on a more Easterly direction back to the carpark. Finally finding this path I follow its course but again veer off to the left under the step slopes. Looking back and studying the map at home I now know where I went wrong. So now I didn't really know where I was. I was heading back up hill along another ledge. I stopped and checked the map. I was a little nervous now. My first day out navigating had gone wrong. I sat down to regroup, calm down, have a rest and take on some water. I could see the village of Tanygrisiau below me and knew which direction the track up Llyn Cwmorthyn would be. I just needed to head in that direction. I moved on up hill and within a few hundred meters I saw my car in the carpark below and ahead of me the face of Craig Nyth Y Gigfan. Feeling happier now I picked my way down to another disused quarry, same scenery . It was by accident that I found a narrow, well hidden path leading a twisting slippery trail back down to the foot of the valley below. If I hadn't turned round to admire the views I would of missed it leading to a long walk around. As a warning this path would be dangerous in wet or icy conditions. I slipped enough as it was in dry conditions.

Back down to land I knew, I walked back up to the small bridge crossing the stream, stopping for a break and to wash my face and head of sweat. From here it was a nice stroll back to the car.

 

Iechyd da !!

Moel Arthur to Penycloddiau, Clwydian Range.

Start Point - Carpark SJ147657.

Its a bright, clear morning, I have the day off but have to take the wife to work for eight and pick her up later in the afternoon. It would be a shame to waste such an opportunity as the next hours present. I feel the first signs of Spring in the air as I get the dogs in the car along with my rucksack and boots, heading of the seven miles or so to drop off the wife at her work which just happens to be at Western foot of the beautiful Clwydian Range.

 

 

After the usual 'Be careful's and 'Don't be late picking me up's' I'm a free man, to roam where I want.
I follow a winding lane up a valley onto the top of the range and park in the small car park on the left. Towering above me are the steep banks of the ancient hill fort, Moel Arthur. Built around 500BC, over two thousand years ago, the hill fort is one of many along the Clwydian Range, commanding spectacular views over the Vale of Clwyd to the West and over the border into England  to the East. This site was inhabited before the Iron age as a possible Bronze Age burial mound lies in the middle of the site and excavations have unearthed Bronze age axes.

 

Moel Arthur from the Car park

After kitting up its the step climb up to the summit. Its step on this Southern side with a narrow winding track through the heather leading the way. I'm soon puffing and panting, the legs starting to burn when about half way up I reach a slight level area with views to the East. I can see the Jubilee Tower on Moel Famau in the distance, some three miles away. A few photos later and its upwards again to the top of the hill to the site of the old fort. There's a cold wind blowing up here, the rock pile at the summit, some 456m, is totally exposed to the elements, the ground here is still frozen, the sun has still to work its magic. I look around at the views. Below, a few miles away I can see the small village of Llandurnog, further to the West I can make out the Castled town of Denbigh with a backdrop of the snow capped mountains of Snowdonia in the far distance. It is beautiful, a view to behold. A view I cant truly capture with the camera.

 

Moel Famau away in the distance

 

Views over into England

 

 

Denbigh with the snow capped mountains of Snowdonia in the distance

 

From here I follow a narrow track down to the well trodden Offa's Dike Path, known in Welsh as Lywbr Clawdd Offa. It is one of Britans National Trails, its 177 miles, 285km, route runs from Prestatyn to Sedbury, near Chepstow on the Severn estuary, closely following the Welsh, English border and attracts walkers from the world over.
Here, I turn left, following a N.W. direction, down into the next small valley, wooded on the North side, eventually leading to a busier car park, (Grid Ref  SJ139669).

 

The way down to the second valley

 

 

Out of the car park, heading for Penycloddiau

 

 I stop here for a rest and drink, watching fellow walkers coming and going, some couples, holding hands, some on their own with all the modern brightly coloured walking clothes, some out walking their dogs. Refuelled, its time to move on. Around the wooden gate and taking the narrow footpath to the right, just a few meters ahead, its a steady climb up along the woods edge towards the second, larger hill fort of the day, Penycloddiau. The path eventually breaks away from the woods and heads over the rampants of the fort  Again, the path offers some fantastic views across the Vale below. Carrying on the path continues along the barren, windswept hillside. The small pond I've seen on the map appears to the right jurns out to be more of a bog, not a possible campsite as I hoped. But to be honest, I wouldn't want to camp here as it is too close to the well walked path anyway.

Continuing uphill for a few hundred metres or so to the summit of Penycloddiau, marked by a small mound of stones. I rest here and chat for a while to a couple of fellow hikers, taking some photos and admiring the views below.
Penycloddiau translates as 'Hill of the Trenches' or 'Peak of the mounds'. It is one of the largest hillforts in Wales and is one of the five 'Marilyns' on the Clwydian Range. It stands at 440m, some 1440 feet. Its believed, as with Moel Arthur that this area was inhabited before the Iron Age as there is evidence of a Bronze age burial mound to the Northern end of the hill.
One thing about these hill forts is the beautiful views, but, more importantly to their inhabitants, is the commanding views. You could never sneak up on them and to attack them would be exhausting.
Views enjoyed, food and water consumed, its time for the return trip and eventually pick up the wife and return home.

 

A pose from the boys.

Crib Goch

A selection of photos from Crib Goch, early Spring 2015.

Llyn Cwmorthin and Quarry, Nr.Blaenau Ffestiniog

Start Point - Carpark SH684453

Second outing in two days and last of this one week holiday, I'm heading to the old ruined slate miners barracks and chapel on the edge of Llyn Cwmorthin near the village of Tanygrisiau.
I start out at quarter to nine in the morning traveling over the Denbigh moors until coming to the A5. Then heading towards Betws-Y-Coed but turning left just before the town onto the A470. Passing through the small village of Dolwyddelan I continue up and over the Crimea Pass coming down passing Llechwedd Slate Caverns on my left and Gloddfa Ganol Slate mines on my right I finaly come to the small town  of Blaenau Ffestiniog. Heading for the village of Tanygrisiau from the first roundabout on the outskirts of the town I follow into the village taking a right turn, heading up a steep hill, under a railway bridge I see car parking spaces on the side of the lane to the left.
From here there are two footpaths, one veering to the left which was closed and under repair, the other heads straight up from the carpark, through a gate with an initial steep climb passing a waterfall on the left.

 

The track levels out after a short period and I come to an open area of ground, slate piled high to my right and the river running its man made channels to my left. Following on, up a slight incline I turn left, over a small bridge and onto the track following the shores of the lake.

 

Its over cast and there's a bit of a chill in the air, the surrounding mountain summits are cloud covered and don't show any sign of making an appearance whilst I'm here.

 

The remains of the quarry men's barracks

 

Those steps provide a convenient spot for a rest, cup of coffee and some spicy Mexican rice on the return trip back to the car.

 

Continuing along the track I soon come to Capel Rhosydd, a ruined chapel, the only place of worship for the workmen and there families and also used for the schooling of the children.

 

 

Continuing from here I can glimpse  Plas Cwmorthin through its surrounding trees at the foot of the lake to the right of the track but head first to the large ruins of Rhosydd. Sitting down to rest the legs I can't help but think what life was like back in the 1800 when people lived and worked here. The quarry had a reputation for poor working conditions and was known locally as "The Slaughterhouse''. Between 1875 and 1893 there were 21 deaths in Cwmorthin out of a workforce of around 550. Hard time we can't imagine nowadays but somehow, in places like this you feel it or sense it. Whilst in the chapel I tried to envisage it back then, with men women and children praying to God, music, a piano maybe playing the tune to Hymes as the people sing. But no more, just a ruined old building from times gone by. But there is a presence, a feeling to be felt.

Time for a few more photos from the large ruins at the end of the valley. The point where the path takes a turn to the left and leads up a steep incline to more ruins further up the mountain.

 

 

Foel Ddu.

 

 

A view back down the valley.

 

Starting on the return trip, I take a left onto a short narrow path over a brook to the gardens of Plas Cwmorthin partly hidden beneath a stand of pine trees.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Plas Cwmorthin from the track.

 

 

Plas Cwmorthin is where the quarry manager  would of lived in his relative luxury surroundings. Built around 1860 this building possessed four rooms on each of the two levels plus what looks like a nice garden area.

Back to the track to make my way back to the carpark, stopping once for a coffee and food before heading back down past the beautiful waterfall to the car.