Wednesday 28 December 2016

Rhiwddolion, via Sarn Helen

Betws-Y-Coed is the quietest I've ever seen it. But then if 9.30 in the morning of bright but cold late December day. There's not a cloud in the sky as I kit up and get the dogs ready for our trek to the Forgotten Village, otherwise known as Rhiwddolion. I'm wearing my new Lumber Jack shirt and thermal socks, a Christmas present but right now I wish I had brought my warm gloves. The hands are cold !
We set off heading West along the A5 following Afon Llugwy in search of the old Roman Road named 'Sarn Helen' There's a few people on the main street of the village but I soon leave them behind with their shopping as the village thins out eventually, after about a mile, arriving at the last buildings of the village. To my right is the Miners Bridge crossing the Afon Llygwy, to my left, across the road I see a Public Footpath sign pointing up into the woods around the back of the houses. I didn't know at this point that the main track in front of the houses was Sarn Helen which I'm glad of now as I would of missed the nice walk through the forest.

I follow this footpath up and around the back of the houses, the sound of a waterfall getting ever louder eventually coming to a unique wooden bridge. Now here you will see the river is decorated with some strange charms, possibly to keep the water spirits happy.

 
Following the path I soon get a glimpse of the Waterfall ahead. The path then takes a sharp turn to the Right eventually joining a forest track.


Turning Left here I continue following up the hill eventually coming to a small cottage on the Right. Here I take the track that turns sharp Right in front of the cottage. This is Sarn Helen. Its steep and its rocky.


Its virtually all up hill now although the track becomes less rocky the further up I get. I pass through gates, cross a well used forest track and continue until coming to another small cottage on my Right called 'Ty Mawr'. How do people find such beautiful places to live? A little further along and I get my first sighting of The Forgotten Village, or Ghost Village as some people know it.

 
Rhiwddolion was once a quarrying village with its own school and Chapel as well as homes for the quarry workers. Some of the buildings here date back to the 16th Century but it was during the 18th Century that the village was at it peak. However, eventually the mines and quarry's close, the workers and there family's leaving for work elsewhere, the village fell into ruin, lost and forgotten. Nothing lasts forever.






I have lunch in one of the ruins before heading back onto Sarn Helen, this old Roman road which stretches from Aberconwy in the North to Carmarthen in the South, although the track is lost now in many places. The path is named after the Celtic Saint, Saint Elen of Caernarfon. This time I follow the track right to the A5, passing in front of the houses of which I earlier circled around the back. I cross the road and head down to the miners bridge.



 
Its absolutely beautiful by the bridge, but alas, this also brings the crowds following the footpath on the other side of the river. The path I was going to take. So I head on up to the main road and continue my walk back to the village. Even at the end of December the village is full of life, the restaurants are full, the shops are busy and the streets full of walkers, mountain bikers and tourists. I think everyone in Britain must of been to Betws-Y-Coed at some stage.
Back to the car, kit off and the dogs safely in the back I head off home dreaming of a nice long bath with a book!