Rhiwddolion, via Sarn Helen

Betws-Y-Coed is the quietest I've ever seen it. But then if 9.30 in the morning of bright but cold late December day. There's not a cloud in the sky as I kit up and get the dogs ready for our trek to the Forgotten Village, otherwise known as Rhiwddolion. I'm wearing my new Lumber Jack shirt and thermal socks, a Christmas present but right now I wish I had brought my warm gloves. The hands are cold !
We set off heading West along the A5 following Afon Llugwy in search of the old Roman Road named 'Sarn Helen' There's a few people on the main street of the village but I soon leave them behind with their shopping as the village thins out eventually, after about a mile, arriving at the last buildings of the village. To my right is the Miners Bridge crossing the Afon Llygwy, to my left, across the road I see a Public Footpath sign pointing up into the woods around the back of the houses. I didn't know at this point that the main track in front of the houses was Sarn Helen which I'm glad of now as I would of missed the nice walk through the forest.

I follow this footpath up and around the back of the houses, the sound of a waterfall getting ever louder eventually coming to a unique wooden bridge. Now here you will see the river is decorated with some strange charms, possibly to keep the water spirits happy.

 
Following the path I soon get a glimpse of the Waterfall ahead. The path then takes a sharp turn to the Right eventually joining a forest track.

Turning Left here I continue following up the hill eventually coming to a small cottage on the Right. Here I take the track that turns sharp Right in front of the cottage. This is Sarn Helen. Its steep and its rocky.

Its virtually all up hill now although the track becomes less rocky the further up I get. I pass through gates, cross a well used forest track and continue until coming to another small cottage on my Right called 'Ty Mawr'. How do people find such beautiful places to live? A little further along and I get my first sighting of The Forgotten Village, or Ghost Village as some people know it.

 

Rhiwddolion was once a quarrying village with its own school and Chapel as well as homes for the quarry workers. Some of the buildings here date back to the 16th Century but it was during the 18th Century that the village was at it peak. However, eventually the mines and quarry's close, the workers and there family's leaving for work elsewhere, the village fell into ruin, lost and forgotten. Nothing lasts forever.

I have lunch in one of the ruins before heading back onto Sarn Helen, this old Roman road which stretches from Aberconwy in the North to Carmarthen in the South, although the track is lost now in many places. The path is named after the Celtic Saint, Saint Elen of Caernarfon. This time I follow the track right to the A5, passing in front of the houses of which I earlier circled around the back. I cross the road and head down to the miners bridge.

 

Its absolutely beautiful by the bridge, but alas, this also brings the crowds following the footpath on the other side of the river. The path I was going to take. So I head on up to the main road and continue my walk back to the village. Even at the end of December the village is full of life, the restaurants are full, the shops are busy and the streets full of walkers, mountain bikers and tourists. I think everyone in Britain must of been to Betws-Y-Coed at some stage.

Back to the car, kit off and the dogs safely in the back I head off home dreaming of a nice long bath with a book!

 

Twll Du, (The Devils Kitchen)

Start Point - Car Park SH656602

Twll du is the Welsh name given to the black crack splitting the rock face of Clogwyn Y Geifr, (Cliff of the goat). In English it is known as 'The Devils Kitchen' because of the plume of steam which often rises from the crack. It is said that when the steam is rising the Devil is cooking.

I park in a small car park that is conveniently free beside the main A5 route a few hundred yards East of Idwal Cottage. The view Llyn Ogwen and the imposing Tryfan are just beautiful. I leave the car park, ruck sack on my back an start the steady stroll down to Idwal Cottage. The start of this new adventure.

Idwal Cottage

 

 

 

Llyn Ogwen

 

This was my first return here since a failed, half hearted attempt to climb up the Devils Kitchen about 5 years ago. On that occasion I was ill equipped. I was not sure of which direction to go once the path started to disappear and when the clouds started to come down I decided to turn back. That day seemed to light a fire within me, making me want to discover more of the beautiful landscape of my country. I had been up and down the A5 many times admiring the beauty but never thought of what lay out of sight, that, that is missed by most people. Today I was back, better equipped with a desire to reach the top.

It was a nice bright day but with a bit of a nip on the air as I reached the visitor centre of Idwal Cottage, I followed the path leading up to Llyn Idwal. I cross the bridge, waterfall crashing down to my right, the first photo shoot of the day. Continuing along I come to a unique iron gate. Designed by a man named Joe Roberts, made by a man named Dylan Parry as a tribute to a man named Evan Roberts, the first warden of Cwm Idwal. The top poart reflects the topography around the Devils Kitchen, the rails reflect the geology of the area and its reflection in the lake.
The path is very easy to follow, a steady climb as it turns to the right, I continue alone passing others before getting the first glimpse of the lake. There are quite a few people here, enjoying the views, the fresh air, but I wonder how many are heading in my direction?

 

The Iron gate, a tribute to Evan Roberts, the first Warden of Cwm Idwal

 

The Water fall

Llyn Idwal is a small lake, about 28 acers, that lies within Cwm Idwal in the Glyderau mountains of Snowdonia. The lake is steeped in legend, one being that during the 12 century, Owain, prince of Gwynedd, decided to entrust his son, Idwal, to Nefydd Hardd. Nefydd and his own son, Dunawd, disliked Idwal, leading to Dunawd pushing Idwal into the lake and allowing him to drown. Owain banished Nefydd from the kingdom of Gwynedd and name the lake in his sons memory. It is also said the Idwal died in battle against the Saxons in 942 and his body was cremated on the shore beside the lake. Legend has it that no bird flies over the lakes surface and that a wailing voice can be heard when there is a storm in the Cwm.

 

The path up to the lake

Its here that I turn left, heading down the Eastern shore of the lake soon passing the dark imposing Idwal Slabs, a training ground for Everest conquers, Edmund Hillary and Charles Evans. I can see climbers way up high, inching their way to the top. Climbing like this I have never tried, but it has me thinking, one day I should give it a try. The path here starts to head up and around the Southern end of the lake. Taking care as I cross the small fast flowing stream feed by the thawing snow up above, which has carved a gorge as it rushes its way, near vertical, down to the lake, I continue, up hill until the path filters out as I come to the large boulders which lay scattered from the Devils kitchen.

 

Idwal Slabs to the left, The Devils Kitchen is just above the boulders to the right.

 

Twll Du, The Devils Kitchen.

 

 

You can make out the track passing over the near vertical fast flowing stream.

 

The stream crossing

 

Its here that the going gets tougher. The path comes and goes, there seems to be no right way to go. My legs start to ache as I pick my way up through the boulders, heading straight for the black crack of the Devils Kitchen stopping many times to admire the view below, or is it to rest the tiring legs. As I approach the crack the path reappears and takes me around to the left and up towards the top. I'm confronted by a neat stone wall that thankfully has a style allowing me to carry on upwards until I reach the flat plateau at the top. From here I can see a clear path heading up to Y Gard to my right and a view of Glyder Fawr to my left. I wander around Llyn Y Cwn before back tracking a little and finding a spot just to the left of the path to have a well earned rest and some lunch.

 

The Top, Llyn Y Cwn

I sit for a while just admiring the majestic view before me. I rest my eyes for a few minutes, feeling the slight breeze, taking in the freedom I feel when alone in places like this. Opening my eyes I'm struck by the beauty of this place. Way below me I can see Llyn Idwal, a little further I can see some of Llyn Ogwen, The coast is visible just to my left and straight ahead of me sits Pen Yr Ole Wen.  I stay here for the best part of an hour before heading back down the path, back past The Devils Kitchen, before taking a left turn down to the West side of the lake. Here I get talking to a man who's taking photos of small flowers. He tells me these flowers are called Purple Saxifrage. This is a rare Arctic flower which grows here at its most Southerly point along with Tufted Saxifrage, Snow Saxifrage and the rare Snowdon Lilly.

 

Llyn Idwal, its a long way down !

 

View from the shingle beach of Llyn Idwel.

Moving on I next encounter a group of young girls heading the way I have come from on their Duke of Edinburgh walk that was to climb up The Devils Kitchen, up to Y Garn and back down to the A5. With a few kind words exchanged I continue along the path passing through a gate in a wall and onto a shingle beach beside the lake. From here I continue around the lake back to the stepping stones before heading back down to Idwal Cottage and eventually back to the car. 

A pose whilst having lunch

One of the most beautiful views I've experienced.

Wild Camp, Llyn Croesor

Start Point - Car Park SH684453.

Its a beautiful, clear and sharp spring afternoon when I arrive at the carpark at Tanygrisiau, a small village half a mile from Blaenau Ffestiniog. The start of this excursion is along a track I walked late last year along the Western shore of Llyn Cwmorthin taking in the old disused quarry barracks, the Chapel and Plas Cwmorthin along the way. Much of the history of this quarry is mentioned in the earlier post 'Llyn Cwmorthin and Quarry, Nr.Blaenau Ffestiniog '

                                                                       The old Chapel.

 

The weather is certainly different from my last visit here when it was dull and overcast. This afternoon the sun is shining and the sky is clear. The forecast for the nights camp out and tomorrow is good. Its all fitting into place.
I come to the gate across the track close to Plas Cwmorthin. From here its new territory for me. I follow the track now becoming a steep hike bending to the left known as 'Bwlch Cwmorthin'. Slowly I walk up the track, rucksack on my back, dogs by my side, sun beating down and sweat dripping from my forehead. I keep rounding the curve, suddenly hearing the roar of a hidden waterfall to my right, (SH666463) which is not marked on the map. This must be the outlet from Llyn Cwm-Corsiog and Llyn Clogwyn-Birth higher up to the north. I have a break here and let the dogs explore as I take in the beauty of the falls and re-fuel for the next stage.

Continuing up I soon come to a large flat area which houses the remains of a disused quarry. Its hard to imagine how it look in its hay day with all the buildings still erect and men going about their work in harsh conditions providing slate to 'Roof the World'. Now all is still. All that stands are two rows of barracks surrounded by ruins and old bits of rusted machinery.

 

 

I check the map as this point seems to be the crossroads of two footpaths and an old Track named 'Bwlch Y Rhosydd'. The paths proved hard to find so taking a bearing, (new1:25000 map and Silva Explorer compass on there first trip), I head in a South Westerly direction, keeping the old slag heap to my left, heading through wet and boggy grass land, soon coming ta a style up above to my right. Both sides are just a pool of muddy, boggy water which I immediately sink into, especially with the added weight of my pack, but the boots are good and my feet stay dry. From here I find a faint track heading up. I'm hoping its the right one, rechecking the map and compass, 'Trust the compass' I have read so many times, I continue up for a couple of hundred meters, rounding a left hand bend, I glance over my left shoulder my first sighting of the lake I'm looking for. This is the first time I've navigated off a well beaten track with a compass and map so it was a sense of achievement to find this lake known as Llyn Croesor, translated as The Welcome Lake. (SH661457)

 

                                                        Llyn Croesor from the North

I initially picked two areas to set up the tent on. One, from close to where the photo above was taken. This would of given me a little more shelter if the weather turned but I did wonder if the pegs would take in the shallow soil. The second, which I chose was up on the ridge above the lake, just to the right of centre in the photo above. It held fantastic views to the North West of Cnicht and to the West I could look down Cwm Croesor with Yr Arddu rising in the distance.

                                                                   The Camp site.

I sit down on a rock with a fresh Coffee and write down my thoughts -
'I'm now sat on a small ridge just above Llyn Croesor. Ahead of me the sun is beginning to set above the summit of Yr Arddy. Cwm Croesor lies below in the shadow of Cnicht towering to my right. The view is stunning. I can see many peaks rising in the distance past Yr Arddy, all lighter in colour the further away they are. The sky is blue with wisps of white cloud. The light at this time is showing the mountains at their best. There's a slight breeze with a bit of a nip in the air. I wonder if I'll get a bit of frost in the morning. I've decided to camp where I sit. There are a few rocks about but if I can find a spot to sleep comfortably the morning view will be second to none. I pity people who have never experienced this. Everyone should at least once. I am alone with nature, its stunningly beautiful, quiet, except for the sound of a stream crashing down the side of Cnicht.
I sat and witnessed the sunset over Yr Arddu, watching the colours change over the mountains until totally consumed by darkness. The stars are now bright, really bright and the moon resembles a clipping of a finger nail.

 

Sunset over the mountains

 

The path up to Llyn Croesor

 

Cnicht from camp site

 

Vinnie and Buddy

The temperature was dropping, on came the thermals and extra T shirts, soon followed by hat and gloves. A while later I retire to the comfort of my sleeping bag, Vinnies inside keeping my feet warm and Buddy cuddled up next to me.

Come the morning, its up  with the stove to make a coffee before packing up camp. Its a joy to sip a hot coffee alone on the mountainside with only the dogs for company. I cant see a single human. I pack up camp then take the dogs down to the Llyn for an early morning swim before departing. My plan was to follow two marked footpaths back down to the carpark, thus completing the circuit. With the paths there one minute, gone the next, this was easier said than done.

I set off in an Easterly direction heading up to the visible disused quarry named Rhosydd. Again, a flat area of ruins and trenches. Here I took a more South Easterly direction on what I thought was the path. I planned to sweep around the steep Southern side of Moel-Yr-Hydd. I misread the map here and ended up on top of a near cliff face heading to the mountain instead of around it. I back tracked along the ledge taking in the views far below. It was a pain but well worth the views so I wasn't too disappointed. I continued down the original track, I think, looking to find the footpath that would take me on a more Easterly direction back to the carpark. Finally finding this path I follow its course but again veer off to the left under the step slopes. Looking back and studying the map at home I now know where I went wrong. So now I didn't really know where I was. I was heading back up hill along another ledge. I stopped and checked the map. I was a little nervous now. My first day out navigating had gone wrong. I sat down to regroup, calm down, have a rest and take on some water. I could see the village of Tanygrisiau below me and knew which direction the track up Llyn Cwmorthyn would be. I just needed to head in that direction. I moved on up hill and within a few hundred meters I saw my car in the carpark below and ahead of me the face of Craig Nyth Y Gigfan. Feeling happier now I picked my way down to another disused quarry, same scenery . It was by accident that I found a narrow, well hidden path leading a twisting slippery trail back down to the foot of the valley below. If I hadn't turned round to admire the views I would of missed it leading to a long walk around. As a warning this path would be dangerous in wet or icy conditions. I slipped enough as it was in dry conditions.

Back down to land I knew, I walked back up to the small bridge crossing the stream, stopping for a break and to wash my face and head of sweat. From here it was a nice stroll back to the car.

 

Iechyd da !!

Moel Arthur to Penycloddiau, Clwydian Range.

Start Point - Carpark SJ147657.

Its a bright, clear morning, I have the day off but have to take the wife to work for eight and pick her up later in the afternoon. It would be a shame to waste such an opportunity as the next hours present. I feel the first signs of Spring in the air as I get the dogs in the car along with my rucksack and boots, heading of the seven miles or so to drop off the wife at her work which just happens to be at Western foot of the beautiful Clwydian Range.

 

 

After the usual 'Be careful's and 'Don't be late picking me up's' I'm a free man, to roam where I want.
I follow a winding lane up a valley onto the top of the range and park in the small car park on the left. Towering above me are the steep banks of the ancient hill fort, Moel Arthur. Built around 500BC, over two thousand years ago, the hill fort is one of many along the Clwydian Range, commanding spectacular views over the Vale of Clwyd to the West and over the border into England  to the East. This site was inhabited before the Iron age as a possible Bronze Age burial mound lies in the middle of the site and excavations have unearthed Bronze age axes.

 

Moel Arthur from the Car park

After kitting up its the step climb up to the summit. Its step on this Southern side with a narrow winding track through the heather leading the way. I'm soon puffing and panting, the legs starting to burn when about half way up I reach a slight level area with views to the East. I can see the Jubilee Tower on Moel Famau in the distance, some three miles away. A few photos later and its upwards again to the top of the hill to the site of the old fort. There's a cold wind blowing up here, the rock pile at the summit, some 456m, is totally exposed to the elements, the ground here is still frozen, the sun has still to work its magic. I look around at the views. Below, a few miles away I can see the small village of Llandurnog, further to the West I can make out the Castled town of Denbigh with a backdrop of the snow capped mountains of Snowdonia in the far distance. It is beautiful, a view to behold. A view I cant truly capture with the camera.

 

Moel Famau away in the distance

 

Views over into England

 

 

Denbigh with the snow capped mountains of Snowdonia in the distance

 

From here I follow a narrow track down to the well trodden Offa's Dike Path, known in Welsh as Lywbr Clawdd Offa. It is one of Britans National Trails, its 177 miles, 285km, route runs from Prestatyn to Sedbury, near Chepstow on the Severn estuary, closely following the Welsh, English border and attracts walkers from the world over.
Here, I turn left, following a N.W. direction, down into the next small valley, wooded on the North side, eventually leading to a busier car park, (Grid Ref  SJ139669).

 

The way down to the second valley

 

 

Out of the car park, heading for Penycloddiau

 

 I stop here for a rest and drink, watching fellow walkers coming and going, some couples, holding hands, some on their own with all the modern brightly coloured walking clothes, some out walking their dogs. Refuelled, its time to move on. Around the wooden gate and taking the narrow footpath to the right, just a few meters ahead, its a steady climb up along the woods edge towards the second, larger hill fort of the day, Penycloddiau. The path eventually breaks away from the woods and heads over the rampants of the fort  Again, the path offers some fantastic views across the Vale below. Carrying on the path continues along the barren, windswept hillside. The small pond I've seen on the map appears to the right jurns out to be more of a bog, not a possible campsite as I hoped. But to be honest, I wouldn't want to camp here as it is too close to the well walked path anyway.

Continuing uphill for a few hundred metres or so to the summit of Penycloddiau, marked by a small mound of stones. I rest here and chat for a while to a couple of fellow hikers, taking some photos and admiring the views below.
Penycloddiau translates as 'Hill of the Trenches' or 'Peak of the mounds'. It is one of the largest hillforts in Wales and is one of the five 'Marilyns' on the Clwydian Range. It stands at 440m, some 1440 feet. Its believed, as with Moel Arthur that this area was inhabited before the Iron Age as there is evidence of a Bronze age burial mound to the Northern end of the hill.
One thing about these hill forts is the beautiful views, but, more importantly to their inhabitants, is the commanding views. You could never sneak up on them and to attack them would be exhausting.
Views enjoyed, food and water consumed, its time for the return trip and eventually pick up the wife and return home.

 

A pose from the boys.