Wednesday 16 March 2016

Wild Camp, Llyn Croesor

Start Point - Car Park SH684453.

Its a beautiful, clear and sharp spring afternoon when I arrive at the carpark at Tanygrisiau, a small village half a mile from Blaenau Ffestiniog. The start of this excursion is along a track I walked late last year along the Western shore of Llyn Cwmorthin taking in the old disused quarry barracks, the Chapel and Plas Cwmorthin along the way. Much of the history of this quarry is mentioned in the earlier post 'Llyn Cwmorthin and Quarry, Nr.Blaenau Ffestiniog '



                                                                       The old Chapel.

 
The weather is certainly different from my last visit here when it was dull and overcast. This afternoon the sun is shining and the sky is clear. The forecast for the nights camp out and tomorrow is good. Its all fitting into place.
I come to the gate across the track close to Plas Cwmorthin. From here its new territory for me. I follow the track now becoming a steep hike bending to the left known as 'Bwlch Cwmorthin'. Slowly I walk up the track, rucksack on my back, dogs by my side, sun beating down and sweat dripping from my forehead. I keep rounding the curve, suddenly hearing the roar of a hidden waterfall to my right, (SH666463) which is not marked on the map. This must be the outlet from Llyn Cwm-Corsiog and Llyn Clogwyn-Birth higher up to the north. I have a break here and let the dogs explore as I take in the beauty of the falls and re-fuel for the next stage.

Continuing up I soon come to a large flat area which houses the remains of a disused quarry. Its hard to imagine how it look in its hay day with all the buildings still erect and men going about their work in harsh conditions providing slate to 'Roof the World'. Now all is still. All that stands are two rows of barracks surrounded by ruins and old bits of rusted machinery.
 


 
I check the map as this point seems to be the crossroads of two footpaths and an old Track named 'Bwlch Y Rhosydd'. The paths proved hard to find so taking a bearing, (new1:25000 map and Silva Explorer compass on there first trip), I head in a South Westerly direction, keeping the old slag heap to my left, heading through wet and boggy grass land, soon coming ta a style up above to my right. Both sides are just a pool of muddy, boggy water which I immediately sink into, especially with the added weight of my pack, but the boots are good and my feet stay dry. From here I find a faint track heading up. I'm hoping its the right one, rechecking the map and compass, 'Trust the compass' I have read so many times, I continue up for a couple of hundred meters, rounding a left hand bend, I glance over my left shoulder my first sighting of the lake I'm looking for. This is the first time I've navigated off a well beaten track with a compass and map so it was a sense of achievement to find this lake known as Llyn Croesor, translated as The Welcome Lake. (SH661457)
 
                                                        Llyn Croesor from the North

I initially picked two areas to set up the tent on. One, from close to where the photo above was taken. This would of given me a little more shelter if the weather turned but I did wonder if the pegs would take in the shallow soil. The second, which I chose was up on the ridge above the lake, just to the right of centre in the photo above. It held fantastic views to the North West of Cnicht and to the West I could look down Cwm Croesor with Yr Arddu rising in the distance.


                                                                   The Camp site.

I sit down on a rock with a fresh Coffee and write down my thoughts -
'I'm now sat on a small ridge just above Llyn Croesor. Ahead of me the sun is beginning to set above the summit of Yr Arddy. Cwm Croesor lies below in the shadow of Cnicht towering to my right. The view is stunning. I can see many peaks rising in the distance past Yr Arddy, all lighter in colour the further away they are. The sky is blue with wisps of white cloud. The light at this time is showing the mountains at their best. There's a slight breeze with a bit of a nip in the air. I wonder if I'll get a bit of frost in the morning. I've decided to camp where I sit. There are a few rocks about but if I can find a spot to sleep comfortably the morning view will be second to none. I pity people who have never experienced this. Everyone should at least once. I am alone with nature, its stunningly beautiful, quiet, except for the sound of a stream crashing down the side of Cnicht.
I sat and witnessed the sunset over Yr Arddu, watching the colours change over the mountains until totally consumed by darkness. The stars are now bright, really bright and the moon resembles a clipping of a finger nail.



 
Sunset over the mountains

 
The path up to Llyn Croesor

 
Cnicht from camp site

 
Vinnie and Buddy

The temperature was dropping, on came the thermals and extra T shirts, soon followed by hat and gloves. A while later I retire to the comfort of my sleeping bag, Vinnies inside keeping my feet warm and Buddy cuddled up next to me.

Come the morning, its up  with the stove to make a coffee before packing up camp. Its a joy to sip a hot coffee alone on the mountainside with only the dogs for company. I cant see a single human. I pack up camp then take the dogs down to the Llyn for an early morning swim before departing. My plan was to follow two marked footpaths back down to the carpark, thus completing the circuit. With the paths there one minute, gone the next, this was easier said than done.

I set off in an Easterly direction heading up to the visible disused quarry named Rhosydd. Again, a flat area of ruins and trenches. Here I took a more South Easterly direction on what I thought was the path. I planned to sweep around the steep Southern side of Moel-Yr-Hydd. I misread the map here and ended up on top of a near cliff face heading to the mountain instead of around it. I back tracked along the ledge taking in the views far below. It was a pain but well worth the views so I wasn't too disappointed. I continued down the original track, I think, looking to find the footpath that would take me on a more Easterly direction back to the carpark. Finally finding this path I follow its course but again veer off to the left under the step slopes. Looking back and studying the map at home I now know where I went wrong. So now I didn't really know where I was. I was heading back up hill along another ledge. I stopped and checked the map. I was a little nervous now. My first day out navigating had gone wrong. I sat down to regroup, calm down, have a rest and take on some water. I could see the village of Tanygrisiau below me and knew which direction the track up Llyn Cwmorthyn would be. I just needed to head in that direction. I moved on up hill and within a few hundred meters I saw my car in the carpark below and ahead of me the face of Craig Nyth Y Gigfan. Feeling happier now I picked my way down to another disused quarry, same scenery . It was by accident that I found a narrow, well hidden path leading a twisting slippery trail back down to the foot of the valley below. If I hadn't turned round to admire the views I would of missed it leading to a long walk around. As a warning this path would be dangerous in wet or icy conditions. I slipped enough as it was in dry conditions.

Back down to land I knew, I walked back up to the small bridge crossing the stream, stopping for a break and to wash my face and head of sweat. From here it was a nice stroll back to the car.

 
Iechyd da !!




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