Twll Du, (The Devils Kitchen)

Start Point - Car Park SH656602

Twll du is the Welsh name given to the black crack splitting the rock face of Clogwyn Y Geifr, (Cliff of the goat). In English it is known as 'The Devils Kitchen' because of the plume of steam which often rises from the crack. It is said that when the steam is rising the Devil is cooking.

I park in a small car park that is conveniently free beside the main A5 route a few hundred yards East of Idwal Cottage. The view Llyn Ogwen and the imposing Tryfan are just beautiful. I leave the car park, ruck sack on my back an start the steady stroll down to Idwal Cottage. The start of this new adventure.

Idwal Cottage

 

 

 

Llyn Ogwen

 

This was my first return here since a failed, half hearted attempt to climb up the Devils Kitchen about 5 years ago. On that occasion I was ill equipped. I was not sure of which direction to go once the path started to disappear and when the clouds started to come down I decided to turn back. That day seemed to light a fire within me, making me want to discover more of the beautiful landscape of my country. I had been up and down the A5 many times admiring the beauty but never thought of what lay out of sight, that, that is missed by most people. Today I was back, better equipped with a desire to reach the top.

It was a nice bright day but with a bit of a nip on the air as I reached the visitor centre of Idwal Cottage, I followed the path leading up to Llyn Idwal. I cross the bridge, waterfall crashing down to my right, the first photo shoot of the day. Continuing along I come to a unique iron gate. Designed by a man named Joe Roberts, made by a man named Dylan Parry as a tribute to a man named Evan Roberts, the first warden of Cwm Idwal. The top poart reflects the topography around the Devils Kitchen, the rails reflect the geology of the area and its reflection in the lake.
The path is very easy to follow, a steady climb as it turns to the right, I continue alone passing others before getting the first glimpse of the lake. There are quite a few people here, enjoying the views, the fresh air, but I wonder how many are heading in my direction?

 

The Iron gate, a tribute to Evan Roberts, the first Warden of Cwm Idwal

 

The Water fall

Llyn Idwal is a small lake, about 28 acers, that lies within Cwm Idwal in the Glyderau mountains of Snowdonia. The lake is steeped in legend, one being that during the 12 century, Owain, prince of Gwynedd, decided to entrust his son, Idwal, to Nefydd Hardd. Nefydd and his own son, Dunawd, disliked Idwal, leading to Dunawd pushing Idwal into the lake and allowing him to drown. Owain banished Nefydd from the kingdom of Gwynedd and name the lake in his sons memory. It is also said the Idwal died in battle against the Saxons in 942 and his body was cremated on the shore beside the lake. Legend has it that no bird flies over the lakes surface and that a wailing voice can be heard when there is a storm in the Cwm.

 

The path up to the lake

Its here that I turn left, heading down the Eastern shore of the lake soon passing the dark imposing Idwal Slabs, a training ground for Everest conquers, Edmund Hillary and Charles Evans. I can see climbers way up high, inching their way to the top. Climbing like this I have never tried, but it has me thinking, one day I should give it a try. The path here starts to head up and around the Southern end of the lake. Taking care as I cross the small fast flowing stream feed by the thawing snow up above, which has carved a gorge as it rushes its way, near vertical, down to the lake, I continue, up hill until the path filters out as I come to the large boulders which lay scattered from the Devils kitchen.

 

Idwal Slabs to the left, The Devils Kitchen is just above the boulders to the right.

 

Twll Du, The Devils Kitchen.

 

 

You can make out the track passing over the near vertical fast flowing stream.

 

The stream crossing

 

Its here that the going gets tougher. The path comes and goes, there seems to be no right way to go. My legs start to ache as I pick my way up through the boulders, heading straight for the black crack of the Devils Kitchen stopping many times to admire the view below, or is it to rest the tiring legs. As I approach the crack the path reappears and takes me around to the left and up towards the top. I'm confronted by a neat stone wall that thankfully has a style allowing me to carry on upwards until I reach the flat plateau at the top. From here I can see a clear path heading up to Y Gard to my right and a view of Glyder Fawr to my left. I wander around Llyn Y Cwn before back tracking a little and finding a spot just to the left of the path to have a well earned rest and some lunch.

 

The Top, Llyn Y Cwn

I sit for a while just admiring the majestic view before me. I rest my eyes for a few minutes, feeling the slight breeze, taking in the freedom I feel when alone in places like this. Opening my eyes I'm struck by the beauty of this place. Way below me I can see Llyn Idwal, a little further I can see some of Llyn Ogwen, The coast is visible just to my left and straight ahead of me sits Pen Yr Ole Wen.  I stay here for the best part of an hour before heading back down the path, back past The Devils Kitchen, before taking a left turn down to the West side of the lake. Here I get talking to a man who's taking photos of small flowers. He tells me these flowers are called Purple Saxifrage. This is a rare Arctic flower which grows here at its most Southerly point along with Tufted Saxifrage, Snow Saxifrage and the rare Snowdon Lilly.

 

Llyn Idwal, its a long way down !

 

View from the shingle beach of Llyn Idwel.

Moving on I next encounter a group of young girls heading the way I have come from on their Duke of Edinburgh walk that was to climb up The Devils Kitchen, up to Y Garn and back down to the A5. With a few kind words exchanged I continue along the path passing through a gate in a wall and onto a shingle beach beside the lake. From here I continue around the lake back to the stepping stones before heading back down to Idwal Cottage and eventually back to the car. 

A pose whilst having lunch

One of the most beautiful views I've experienced.